Nov/092
TV Bracket + Latest Order for new kit
I will be upgrading my computer within the next two weeks. Well, I say upgrading, I’m actually just buying a PC, to run rFactor and COD:MW2 specifically. I’m currently using a top of the range Mac Pro. While it’s performance is absolutely incredible, restarting to do a few laps or to play COD is annoying. I want something where I can just wake it from sleep and do some laps, so that’s where the idea came about.
I’m pretty much decided on the spec now.
- Intel Core i7 920 2.66Ghz
- Asus P6T SE Intel X58 1366 PCI-Express DDR3 Motherboard
- WD Velociraptor 150GB 10,000RPM HDD
- ATI Radeon HD 5770 1GB GDDR5
- OCZ 3X2GB DDR3 Triple Chanel Ram
- Corsair 650W ATX PSU
- Lancool Dragon-Lord PC-K58 Case
- Edimax EW-7728IN
- Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro CPU Cooler
- DVD/RW 22x Optical Drive
So, based on that, it will rip through any games I can throw at it. I am currently using a 30″ Apple Cinema Display which is the best of the best. The size, and the quality is phenominal. I decided that getting a smaller monitor was a bad idea as it would seem very small. I thought about using my TV, but it’s not Full HD, only 720, so the native resolution is 1280×720. I thought this would be poor for running rFactor, but it turns out that is isn’t. I gave it a go and it looks phenominal.
I realised a couple of things. Firstly, my 2560x 30″ Monitor upscales the game, the graphics aren’t even made into that resolution so while the image is pure, it’s not as good as it could be. The second thing was that my TV has such a low resolution that the game can be scaled down and therefore it looks even nicer. The buttons mainly and the interface, not so much the cars and tracks. Having only a 1280x resolution will also be easier on the graphics card, so thats a bonus.
When I’m playing COD, I’m simply going to switch display’s back to my current one, no way can I play COD from inside my cockpit and at a 1280x resolution!
Finally I can get Windows off my Mac, where it most certainly doesn’t belong!
Initially, I had my TV stood on my cockpit with the stand. But I had a solution that has worked incredibly well. I purchased a tilt/twist/swivel and rotate bracket from Amazon for £45. It’s the most solid bracket I’ve seen. I secured the bracket on the wall at the correct height for my cockpit, so there’s no stand anymore. However the beauty is that my bed is in line with the cockpit, so when I want to watch TV in bed, I can turn the TV around 180 degrees and watch it. If I’m at my PC, I can place it flat against the wall. So it works all ways around. Please ignore the curtains in the picture! My sister moved to Uni and I quickly stole her room!
I’ve also ordered a couple of other things today, while I wait to order my PC. When I’m in the cockpit, I still need a keyboard, just to type in game, but I also needed a mouse. Now, obviously I could just use a USB mouse and keyboard, but that means more wires and that also means putting it ontop of the cockpit, cluttering it up. So I decided I needed wireless. But I found the perfect solution.
A keyboard is pretty bulky and a mouse needs a decent surface to move on, so instead I went with the Logitech DiNovo. It’s a great little piece of kit. Very small, nearly palm sized. It has a small touchpad in the top right which I can use as the mouse, and it can just sit down the side of the seat when I don’t need it. Perfect.
I also ordered an anti-static wristband and mat ready for the PC build. And a headphone to Phono lead so I can use the TV speakers for racing.
Speak soon guys!
Nov/090
More carpeting and Track Map Holder
Wow, I finally got around to doing some more work on the cockpit. I suddenly had an urge to finish the carpet, so I spent a couple of hours finishing it tonight.
Before starting this I fixed in the rear brackets on the wheel shelf, I forgot to secure this before.
I chose to do the bottom section first off, measuring the length and width needed and leaving enough for an inch of overlap on each side. I was only carpeting up to the edge of the carpet gripper, where the pedals start. Nothing else is visible, from either inside or out.
I was more accurate than when I did the back half, so cutting things too small wasn’t an issue. After fixing the bottom piece, I chose to do the large vertical face at the bottom. This would overlap the extra inch from the bottom section and be trimmed at the edge for a clean line.
Next up, I did the sides, inside. These sections would go over the brackets for holding the wheel shelf. Again, I left an inch of overlap. This would be trimmed to the edge afterwards. Next I wanted to cover the vertical face going up the sides. I used one rectangular piece for either side. This would overlap the sides inside and leave no line visible.
Next, I needed to make custom shapes to fit in the top corners (see images). I did some brief measuring and ended up with a shape that somehow looked like the cockpit itself! I got these two stuck in.
Finally I decided to cover the wheel shelf. In hope it might deaden the sound of my wheel just a bit. There were a few tiny little gaps in the material so I just used some of the offcuts and filled them. Once the glue is perfectly dry I will brush off any excess glue that has got onto the front of the carpet.
Very happy with the final result of the carpeting, like the back half, it really absorbs the corners, it’s great to sit in.
Finally, just for a little touch, I added a plastic Business Card Pocket. This would hold a track map.
Not much more left to do now. Decals, Wheel, Final touch ups and hopefully two button boxes if someone can make them for me!
I’m thinking of covering the wheel cowling in the carbon fibre I’ve got left over. It’s either that or painting it.
Aug/090
Decided against the 12C in favour of the Arc Wheel
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- The Arc Wheel
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- Back of the wheel
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- In cockpit use
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- Getting a feel for the wheel
I’ve made a fairly big decision today, and just in time!
Next week I was going to order the Seat & Momo 12c, but tonight I’ve come to the conclusion that I’m going to leave the wheel.
The wheel itself would have set me back £150. As well as this I wanted to make a quick release system, extend the steering column, add extra buttons and also clutch paddles. The cost of materials/components for this would have been about £350, plus many, many hours of my time trying to figure it all out and build it.
Tonight I found ARC. An Italian Sim modification team. They specialise in cockpits, pedals, wheels and modifications to existing hardware like the G25. They are currently making an Arc Wheel. It has every single thing I wanted to do myself, only properly. I think doing what I wanted to do with my skills would have been a bit of a ‘bodge-job’. Sure, it would have worked, but it wouldn’t have been tidy and I definitely wouldn’t have been able to make a 8 pin cannon connector work!
Anyway! They are offering the wheel with a set of options
- With or without quick release (Sparco)
- With or without Clutch Paddles
- With or without SLI-M (RPM & Gear indicators)
- Aluminium or Carbon Fibre Body
Perfect!
It looks the part, and has everything I need/wanted. It’s 100% the way to go. It isn’t being released until October or November 2009, so theres a couple of months until it’s release. In which time I can save enough to buy it.
I have no idea what the cost of it will be, but I assume it will be fairly substantial, given the labour costs and the components used. I know the sparco quick release is around £120 alone. I can see it being more than £500, hopefully not too much more otherwise my face will end up like this – :-O.
Check out the pics above anyway!