Nov/090
Wheel updates & Other Information
Hey guys!
I’ve paid for the wheel, a month ahead of release! ARC are shipping the wheel on Wednesday, so I’m hoping it should be here within the next week or so, cannot wait!
The guy I asked to make me a couple of button boxes has re-surfaced, he was on holiday and had no access to email’s. So it’s back on! He’s making me two button boxes, 6 buttons in each, with a main, slightly larger box housing more wiring and a Leo Bodnar board. This will then plug into my computer via USB. Image attached.
I am buying a new computer in December. I currently have a top of the range Mac Pro. Which does the job perfectly. However, I have to restart into Windows everytime I want to drive, which is totally inconvenient. Also, moving the cockpit across the room each time is frustrating, so keeping it where it is permanantly will be great.
The computer will be a self build, highly spec’d, with Core i5 or i7 processors, 4GB of DDR3 ram, an ATI 5770 1GB and an top of the range motherboard. The PC will blitz anything.
Because of this I wanted a new monitor. So I don’t have to move my current one each time as I currently am. The problem is that my current monitor is 2560x resolution, 30″ screen size. So anything smaller would seem tiny. The only resolution was a TV but I was worried about my 32″ LCD TV resolution, it’s only HD Ready at 720p. I tested it tonight however and was incredibly surprised. Due to the massive resolution of my monitor, it actually upscales the game, so some of the buttons look rough and other things as well. With the TV, and the resolution being lower the game looks even more crisp, not a let down at all. I had expected the car to fill up most of the screen which really wasn’t the case.
So now I’m using my 32″ TV as my gaming monitor. I want to buy a swivel stand so I can turn it around – my bed is the exact opposite way to the cockpit.
Button Box Diagram
Aug/090
Seat Kit Arrived & Painting Finished & Decal Designs
-
- Seat Kit
-
- Desktop Files – Decal Images
My seat arrived today. The kit looks great, can’t wait to try and mould it. Will possibly be doing that tonight, fingers crossed! The process seams quite lengthy, but it’s best to be thorough and get it perfect than to rush it. After all, if it goes wrong, I may as well have just thrown £145 down the drain!
I think I will have to add some more wood to the bottom of the cockpit, the seat needs to be raised slightly, the front being level with the entrance to the front half. It might be possible to shift the beads enough to fit it perfectly, but I’m unsure. The last thing I want to happen is for me to end up getting pins and needles/dead leg whilst driving. That would be a nightmare.
I’m also thinking of covering the seat in either black suede or Nomex cloth.
Anyway, the painting is completely finished!
Paint process:
- Sanding
- 1st Coat of Zinsser Grey Primer
- Sanding
- 2nd Coat of Zinsser Grey Primer
- Sanding
- Grey Undercoat
- Sanding
- 1st Top coat
- Sanding
- 2nd Top Coat
- Sanding
- 3rd Top Coat
- 4th Top Coat
Glad thats over! Each of the Top coats required 16 hours drying time in between. Although it will take around 10 days to fully cure.
Last night I drilled a hole in the bottom of the front half of the cockpit for a couple of wires to enter the cockpit. I will finish this off with a silver metal disc, so the hole is completely tidy.
I also spent a couple of hours last night preparing the decal images. This was a fairly length process. Each image requiring the correct size (in CM/MM), a blank backgroud, correct naming etc. Having to pull each one off the internet in a decent size was more difficult than I thought it would be. My desktop is now littered with the files!
In total there will be 37 decals on the cockpit. This seems a lot! However, every decal on one side also needs to be on the other. And then 7 decals for the top. Just like my initial design.
If the printing company can do the job, I’m ready to go!
Aug/092
More Materials Ordered
-
- Spacer Drawing
-
- Metal Letter Punch Set
-
- Acrylic Rod
Tonight I’ve ordered a metal letter punch set. I want to punch the letters into the Aluminium button box and this is definitely the best way to do it. It was only about £8.99 for a 37pc set.
As for the buttons on the button box, I’ve decided against the Steel Coach Bolts. Although they would work, I think they might be a little bit too heavy for buttons. After all, they’re steel!
I’ve ordered a 1M section of 8mm Acrylic Rod. Which will be the perfect size, easier to cut and a lot lighter.
The same company I ordered the rod from to customising services, so I’ve sent off a CAD drawing to them for the spacers I want to use to attach the Momo 12C. I asked for 4 x 3mm discs with the holes drilled for me. Shouldn’t be too expensive, since a 50×50cm sheet of Acrylic costs £2.49 from their shop!
Costs:
- Acrylic Rod – £2.06
- Punch Set – £8.99
Links to the products:
Jul/090
Ste’s Wheel Ideas
-
- Momo 12c
-
- Quick Release
I’ve decided that I’m going to make fairly big modifications to my G25 Wheel. My plan is to buy a Momo 12c, drill the holes into it matching the current G25’s. I will need to make or buy a spacer, as the Momo wheel is fairly thin. Also I’m going to try and fit a quick release system to it while I’m at it. Most quick release systems come with 3 attachment holes, so I will also need an adapter to convert it from the 3 into the G25’s 6. There are a few button plates around for the 12c that would come in use. Alternatively, I can take apart the shifter and remove the PCB, put it in the G25 and wire it to the new buttons on the wheel.
I am also considering lengthening the G25 steering column. I want to be able to get the Base inside the cockpit so its not visible, lengthening the steering column seems like the best idea.