Nov/092
TV Bracket + Latest Order for new kit
I will be upgrading my computer within the next two weeks. Well, I say upgrading, I’m actually just buying a PC, to run rFactor and COD:MW2 specifically. I’m currently using a top of the range Mac Pro. While it’s performance is absolutely incredible, restarting to do a few laps or to play COD is annoying. I want something where I can just wake it from sleep and do some laps, so that’s where the idea came about.
I’m pretty much decided on the spec now.
- Intel Core i7 920 2.66Ghz
- Asus P6T SE Intel X58 1366 PCI-Express DDR3 Motherboard
- WD Velociraptor 150GB 10,000RPM HDD
- ATI Radeon HD 5770 1GB GDDR5
- OCZ 3X2GB DDR3 Triple Chanel Ram
- Corsair 650W ATX PSU
- Lancool Dragon-Lord PC-K58 Case
- Edimax EW-7728IN
- Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro CPU Cooler
- DVD/RW 22x Optical Drive
So, based on that, it will rip through any games I can throw at it. I am currently using a 30″ Apple Cinema Display which is the best of the best. The size, and the quality is phenominal. I decided that getting a smaller monitor was a bad idea as it would seem very small. I thought about using my TV, but it’s not Full HD, only 720, so the native resolution is 1280×720. I thought this would be poor for running rFactor, but it turns out that is isn’t. I gave it a go and it looks phenominal.
I realised a couple of things. Firstly, my 2560x 30″ Monitor upscales the game, the graphics aren’t even made into that resolution so while the image is pure, it’s not as good as it could be. The second thing was that my TV has such a low resolution that the game can be scaled down and therefore it looks even nicer. The buttons mainly and the interface, not so much the cars and tracks. Having only a 1280x resolution will also be easier on the graphics card, so thats a bonus.
When I’m playing COD, I’m simply going to switch display’s back to my current one, no way can I play COD from inside my cockpit and at a 1280x resolution!
Finally I can get Windows off my Mac, where it most certainly doesn’t belong!
Initially, I had my TV stood on my cockpit with the stand. But I had a solution that has worked incredibly well. I purchased a tilt/twist/swivel and rotate bracket from Amazon for £45. It’s the most solid bracket I’ve seen. I secured the bracket on the wall at the correct height for my cockpit, so there’s no stand anymore. However the beauty is that my bed is in line with the cockpit, so when I want to watch TV in bed, I can turn the TV around 180 degrees and watch it. If I’m at my PC, I can place it flat against the wall. So it works all ways around. Please ignore the curtains in the picture! My sister moved to Uni and I quickly stole her room!
I’ve also ordered a couple of other things today, while I wait to order my PC. When I’m in the cockpit, I still need a keyboard, just to type in game, but I also needed a mouse. Now, obviously I could just use a USB mouse and keyboard, but that means more wires and that also means putting it ontop of the cockpit, cluttering it up. So I decided I needed wireless. But I found the perfect solution.
A keyboard is pretty bulky and a mouse needs a decent surface to move on, so instead I went with the Logitech DiNovo. It’s a great little piece of kit. Very small, nearly palm sized. It has a small touchpad in the top right which I can use as the mouse, and it can just sit down the side of the seat when I don’t need it. Perfect.
I also ordered an anti-static wristband and mat ready for the PC build. And a headphone to Phono lead so I can use the TV speakers for racing.
Speak soon guys!
Nov/090
More carpeting and Track Map Holder
Wow, I finally got around to doing some more work on the cockpit. I suddenly had an urge to finish the carpet, so I spent a couple of hours finishing it tonight.
Before starting this I fixed in the rear brackets on the wheel shelf, I forgot to secure this before.
I chose to do the bottom section first off, measuring the length and width needed and leaving enough for an inch of overlap on each side. I was only carpeting up to the edge of the carpet gripper, where the pedals start. Nothing else is visible, from either inside or out.
I was more accurate than when I did the back half, so cutting things too small wasn’t an issue. After fixing the bottom piece, I chose to do the large vertical face at the bottom. This would overlap the extra inch from the bottom section and be trimmed at the edge for a clean line.
Next up, I did the sides, inside. These sections would go over the brackets for holding the wheel shelf. Again, I left an inch of overlap. This would be trimmed to the edge afterwards. Next I wanted to cover the vertical face going up the sides. I used one rectangular piece for either side. This would overlap the sides inside and leave no line visible.
Next, I needed to make custom shapes to fit in the top corners (see images). I did some brief measuring and ended up with a shape that somehow looked like the cockpit itself! I got these two stuck in.
Finally I decided to cover the wheel shelf. In hope it might deaden the sound of my wheel just a bit. There were a few tiny little gaps in the material so I just used some of the offcuts and filled them. Once the glue is perfectly dry I will brush off any excess glue that has got onto the front of the carpet.
Very happy with the final result of the carpeting, like the back half, it really absorbs the corners, it’s great to sit in.
Finally, just for a little touch, I added a plastic Business Card Pocket. This would hold a track map.
Not much more left to do now. Decals, Wheel, Final touch ups and hopefully two button boxes if someone can make them for me!
I’m thinking of covering the wheel cowling in the carbon fibre I’ve got left over. It’s either that or painting it.
Sep/092
I’m Home! – Pedals/Wheel attached | Cowling Cutting & Fixing
Hey Guys! I’m back from Italy after an incredible 8 days in Milan. The Grand Prix was fantastic. Now I’m back in the real World and I want to get this cockpit finished!
I’ve lost track of whats left, but as far as I can remember this is it:
- Steering wheel cowling
- Mount Pedals
- Mount Steering Wheel
- Decals/Stickers
- Carpet Front Section
- Final Coat of Paint & Touch Up
- ARC Wheel
So, really there’s not all that much left, the decals are out of my hands. I’m waiting for a response on those. I need more carpet, which I will get ordered.
Anyway, last night I started on the Pedals, Steering Wheel and Cowling – and a quick test 
I began with the task of attaching and fixing the pedals in the cockpit. I put the pedals in the front section, rested on the back edge. They stood up quite nicely under their own weight. I got into the cockpit and found the nicest position for them. Unfortunately this was about 2 inches from the back of the cockpit – so they wouldn’t be able to rest and get fixed right there. I marked where the pedals rested, bottom, top, sides – so I could fix them in the exact same place.
I needed a solution and after some ideas of using wooden batons, I went with a carpet gripper! I cut a carpet gripper to the exact width of the front section, two pieces. One part for the bottom, this would prevent the pedals slipping down and it gave a lip for them to sit in. I hammered the sharp grippers down and it proved to give a clean look whilst doing it’s job. For holding the pedals at the correct angle, I used the second piece. This was a bit longer, 3 inches on either side. I used a vice to bend the final 3 inches on the ends around, 90 degrees to the main section. This would allow me to screw it into the side of the cockpit and use the main length to rest the pedals in! Because the carpet gripper already has holes in, I only needed to drill an additional two holes through the metal to fix it to the cockpit and prevent it twisting.
I placed the pedals in and they fitted snugly and completely secure. I put a lot of force in every direction on the pedals and they didn’t move, so just driving won’t be a problem at all.
The next job was fixing the wheel to the cockpit. I already had a section of wood about 30cm long, 0.75in deep and wide enough for an extremely tight fit within the cockpit. I found it quite difficult to find the best position for the wheel and it was very tight with my knees. The clamps on the bottom of the wheel base were about 1cm away from making contact with my legs. I decided it was ok. :-O
I marked where the board was in the same way I did with the pedals and then removed it. I decided it was far too deep, un-necessarily. The wheel base is only about 18cm, so this was sparing 12cm or so which wasn’t needed. So I sawed the unused part off in favour of a smaller support section.
I used 4, 90 degree metal brackets to attach the support to the cockpit. Attaching it to the support first and then screwing it into the cockpit. Because of the tight fit, it was supported under it’s own weight whilst I tightened the screws.
The final thing I wanted achieve last night was the wheel cowling. I had a few ideas, as I had done in my mockups. I was initially going to place a section over the wheel, flush with the top of the cockpit. However, the G25 base proved too high. There was about 4mm clearance from the top of it to the surface of the cockpit. Not enough. I decided to place the wooden cowling ontop of the cockpit surface. It was 0.5mm ply board. Easy to cut, easy to sand, easy to paint.
I firstly decided on the rough outline of it, using a pencil, marker pen and a ruler. I cut it a little too bit so I could sand it down, rather than it be too short and have to cut it all again! I used a jigsaw to cut it out. After doing so I used a fine sandpaper to smooth it all, round the corners and remove any possibility of splinters.
Now, for the fixing. I put a line of wood glue around bottom of it. This dries transparent so any excess squeezing out wasn’t a problem. I used 0.75in hardboard pins. They are just like panel pins but brass and a bit stronger. I used 8 in total, spacing them evenly. There was no possibility of the MDF or Ply board splitting with these. Finally, I used a damn cloth to remove the excess wood glue.
This will need to be primed, undercoated and painted red to match the cockpit.
Now all in place, the final thing to do was to have a quick test! My first outing with it! The perspective with the Display was different and will take a little getting used to. But the wheel felt completely solid, the pedals felt solid and everything went smoothly.
So, this leaves me with the following:
- Decals/Stickers
- Carpet Front Section
- Final Coat of Paint & Touch Up
- ARC Wheel
Enjoy the pics!
Sep/090
Carpeting the back half of the Cockpit
Yes yes, I said no more updates until the 17th, but I found a bit of time tonight and took on the carpeting.
After about 15 minutes I realised I wouldn’t have enough to do the full thing – sigh! I managed to do the back half with a few scraps left over. So I will need to order a bit more.
I started off by measuring the base, adding an extra inch or two at both ends and top and bottom. This would be so it would rise up the sides a little and also hang over the edge, so I could ensure a better line down the front of the cockpit.
I cut this out, sprayed the back with adhesive – which incidentally ran out after covering this piece. Luckily I had a second can, well, my Dad did. I pushed the bottom piece into place, squeezed it into the corners and made sure it was completely stuck on. I had to cut the corners off at the back, so the carpet didn’t scrunch up. For now, I left the overhang in place.
I chose to do the back next, this would overlap the bottom piece and run along the sides of the cockpit by an inch or so. I trimmed the edges slightly to fit in with the two pieces of wood. I didn’t want any scrunching or folds, so this made it need. I used a combination of scissors and a knife.
Next, I chose to do the two small uprights, but only up to the top of the first piece of wood – not the whole side. I used the same process as the bottom. This side bit overlapped the bottom piece than ran an inch up the side. Once this was stuck down, I used a knife to cut at 45 degrees into the edge (corner) to take the excess off this section. I repeated this for the other side.
Following this, the only remaining pieces were the two main sides. Again, I used exactly the same process as before. overlapping each end and then cutting it at 45 degrees in the join to keep it neat.
The final thing to do was to cut the front overlapping sections off. I used scissors for this. There were still a few bits to touch up, mainly at the back with the angled wood. I just cut off small pieces of carpet and stuck them in. Because the carpet is black it totally absorbs any lines.
I don’t think it’s perfect and I will never be a carpeter, but it does the job and it looks the business. All I need now is more carpet for the front!
Aug/090
Carbon Fibre Fitting & Seat Filling
Today I got underway with the carbon fibre vinyl. I wanted it around the bottom of the rear side of the cockpit. After unrolling it, I cut a piece wide enough for the section. Making sure there was enough to overlap the edges by about 1-1.5cm. I began by peeling off 2 or 3 inches of the vinyl and pressing it onto the surface. I used a smooth cloth to press over the vinyl, taking out any air and possible bubbles. I continued to remove the plastic backing until the whole sheet was pressed tightly to the surface.
I cut a 45 degree angle in the corners, so the edges could fold underneath the cockpit, this would mean no join line at all. The corners also folded nearly together because of the angled cut. At the front edge, I cut just before the start of the rounded edge. I just used a ruler for a straight edge.
I did the same for the opposite side, and then started on the back. The back would only overlap on the bottom, not the sides. It would site over the top of the two side pieces, keeping them in place tightly.
I decided to Duck Tape underneath. This will keep the vinyl firmly in place and provide a small amount of grip on the floor also. Duck tape just doesn’t move so theres 0% chance of the vinyl peeling off now the tape is covering the edges.
Then I moved onto the seat once again. I had previously cut it down, gotten rid of the excess, but now I wanted to fill any cracks and gaps. I used expanding foam for this. I squirted this into all the major cracks and also used it to build up the sides a bit – I wanted the seat to look more even than it did. This foam will expand massively, and I will need to cut and/or sand it off once its dried – usually takes about 45 minutes.
I’ve put everything away now as it was too dark to work, but tomorrow I will set about cutting the excess foam off and leaving myself with a more solid, rigid and symmetrical seat.
Aug/090
Seat Kit Arrived & Painting Finished & Decal Designs
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- Seat Kit
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- Desktop Files – Decal Images
My seat arrived today. The kit looks great, can’t wait to try and mould it. Will possibly be doing that tonight, fingers crossed! The process seams quite lengthy, but it’s best to be thorough and get it perfect than to rush it. After all, if it goes wrong, I may as well have just thrown £145 down the drain!
I think I will have to add some more wood to the bottom of the cockpit, the seat needs to be raised slightly, the front being level with the entrance to the front half. It might be possible to shift the beads enough to fit it perfectly, but I’m unsure. The last thing I want to happen is for me to end up getting pins and needles/dead leg whilst driving. That would be a nightmare.
I’m also thinking of covering the seat in either black suede or Nomex cloth.
Anyway, the painting is completely finished!
Paint process:
- Sanding
- 1st Coat of Zinsser Grey Primer
- Sanding
- 2nd Coat of Zinsser Grey Primer
- Sanding
- Grey Undercoat
- Sanding
- 1st Top coat
- Sanding
- 2nd Top Coat
- Sanding
- 3rd Top Coat
- 4th Top Coat
Glad thats over! Each of the Top coats required 16 hours drying time in between. Although it will take around 10 days to fully cure.
Last night I drilled a hole in the bottom of the front half of the cockpit for a couple of wires to enter the cockpit. I will finish this off with a silver metal disc, so the hole is completely tidy.
I also spent a couple of hours last night preparing the decal images. This was a fairly length process. Each image requiring the correct size (in CM/MM), a blank backgroud, correct naming etc. Having to pull each one off the internet in a decent size was more difficult than I thought it would be. My desktop is now littered with the files!
In total there will be 37 decals on the cockpit. This seems a lot! However, every decal on one side also needs to be on the other. And then 7 decals for the top. Just like my initial design.
If the printing company can do the job, I’m ready to go!
Aug/092
More Materials Ordered
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- Spacer Drawing
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- Metal Letter Punch Set
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- Acrylic Rod
Tonight I’ve ordered a metal letter punch set. I want to punch the letters into the Aluminium button box and this is definitely the best way to do it. It was only about £8.99 for a 37pc set.
As for the buttons on the button box, I’ve decided against the Steel Coach Bolts. Although they would work, I think they might be a little bit too heavy for buttons. After all, they’re steel!
I’ve ordered a 1M section of 8mm Acrylic Rod. Which will be the perfect size, easier to cut and a lot lighter.
The same company I ordered the rod from to customising services, so I’ve sent off a CAD drawing to them for the spacers I want to use to attach the Momo 12C. I asked for 4 x 3mm discs with the holes drilled for me. Shouldn’t be too expensive, since a 50×50cm sheet of Acrylic costs £2.49 from their shop!
Costs:
- Acrylic Rod – £2.06
- Punch Set – £8.99
Links to the products:
Aug/090
Materials Received
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- Carbon Fibre Vinyl
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- Coach Bolt
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- Transparent Wallets
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- CF Vinyl Adhesive Back
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- Spray Adhesive & Carpet
After ordering the materials last week, I’ve been pleasantly surprised to see them all arrive by today. I got the last item – the Carbon Fibre Vinyl.
I’ve already put the Aluminium to good use. The carpet was spot on, the adhesive was about 5 times bigger than it looked in the picture and the CF Vinyl is just as I had expected.
I’ve attached pictures of the materials and also of the bolts I purchased for the button box buttons. I also purchased a pack of transparent business car holders/sleeves. One of these will be ideal for putting a track map into and sticking it on the side of the cockpit. They have self adhesive on the back too.
Jul/094
Some materials purchased
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- Carbon Fibre Vinyl
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- Adhesive Spray
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- Carpet
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- Aluminium Plate
I’ve just ordered a few materials for the cockpt.
- Carbon Fibre Vinyl – 1000mm x 610mm
- Carpet
- Spray Adhesive
- Aluminium Plate – 500mm x 500mm x 3mm
All purchased from Ebay for a very reasonable price.
The Vinyl is 1m x 0.6m and has self adhesive on the back, so that will make it super-easy to stick onto the cockpit. It cost £9.99
The carpet is 2m x 1.35m, and cost £9.99.
The self adhesive will be used to stick the carpet to the inside of the cockpit, this cost £2.49.
The Aluminium plate is 50cm x 50cm x 0.3cm. I will mount my pedals to this. It cost me £10.
These links will take you to the product pages.