Nov/090
ARC Wheel Installation
More detailed guide to installation coming soon, but for now, a few pictures.
Nov/090
Wheel updates & Other Information
Hey guys!
I’ve paid for the wheel, a month ahead of release! ARC are shipping the wheel on Wednesday, so I’m hoping it should be here within the next week or so, cannot wait!
The guy I asked to make me a couple of button boxes has re-surfaced, he was on holiday and had no access to email’s. So it’s back on! He’s making me two button boxes, 6 buttons in each, with a main, slightly larger box housing more wiring and a Leo Bodnar board. This will then plug into my computer via USB. Image attached.
I am buying a new computer in December. I currently have a top of the range Mac Pro. Which does the job perfectly. However, I have to restart into Windows everytime I want to drive, which is totally inconvenient. Also, moving the cockpit across the room each time is frustrating, so keeping it where it is permanantly will be great.
The computer will be a self build, highly spec’d, with Core i5 or i7 processors, 4GB of DDR3 ram, an ATI 5770 1GB and an top of the range motherboard. The PC will blitz anything.
Because of this I wanted a new monitor. So I don’t have to move my current one each time as I currently am. The problem is that my current monitor is 2560x resolution, 30″ screen size. So anything smaller would seem tiny. The only resolution was a TV but I was worried about my 32″ LCD TV resolution, it’s only HD Ready at 720p. I tested it tonight however and was incredibly surprised. Due to the massive resolution of my monitor, it actually upscales the game, so some of the buttons look rough and other things as well. With the TV, and the resolution being lower the game looks even more crisp, not a let down at all. I had expected the car to fill up most of the screen which really wasn’t the case.
So now I’m using my 32″ TV as my gaming monitor. I want to buy a swivel stand so I can turn it around – my bed is the exact opposite way to the cockpit.
Button Box Diagram
Aug/090
Cockpit Cowling Design Proposal
Right, as promised I’ve designed the top of the cockpit. A quick photoshop so nothing special! I designed it as it is now, as I hope it will be and as a final product.
Essentially the cockpit top stops short of the edge by 4 or 5 inches, enough to get the wheel under, but I really dont want to see the wheel base at all. So, I will cover it. With another piece of MDF that will curve around the wheel, hiding the base and leaving just the wheel and part of the shaft visible.
Aug/092
More Materials Ordered
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- Spacer Drawing
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- Metal Letter Punch Set
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- Acrylic Rod
Tonight I’ve ordered a metal letter punch set. I want to punch the letters into the Aluminium button box and this is definitely the best way to do it. It was only about £8.99 for a 37pc set.
As for the buttons on the button box, I’ve decided against the Steel Coach Bolts. Although they would work, I think they might be a little bit too heavy for buttons. After all, they’re steel!
I’ve ordered a 1M section of 8mm Acrylic Rod. Which will be the perfect size, easier to cut and a lot lighter.
The same company I ordered the rod from to customising services, so I’ve sent off a CAD drawing to them for the spacers I want to use to attach the Momo 12C. I asked for 4 x 3mm discs with the holes drilled for me. Shouldn’t be too expensive, since a 50×50cm sheet of Acrylic costs £2.49 from their shop!
Costs:
- Acrylic Rod – £2.06
- Punch Set – £8.99
Links to the products:
Aug/090
Formula Force EX Teardown & Button Box Mockup
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- Button Box Mockup
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- Exposed 3 PCB’s
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- What I’m left with
I took apart my old Logitech Formula Force EX a couple of days ago. In search of using the buttons housed within it. Apart from the two I will put onto the wheel, I will need additional buttons and this seemed like an ideal way to get them.
Steve Jones – the guy who designed and made the Cockpit I am trying to re-create used Plastic boxes, and the buttons from a Belkin Nostromo. Using purchased wire and new red push buttons. While these look fantastic, I’m not sure if I’d be able to do that. I’ve no idea how he connected it all and got it working.
So…I pulled apart the FFEX. The PCB is quite simple and it was obvious which push connectors did what. I removed the one for power knowing that wouldn’t be needed, I removed the connection for the pedals and the other for the Force Motor. There were two remaining pushfit connectors – one for the USB and the other for the 12 buttons on the wheel.
After figuring this out, I pulled off the front of the wheel, exposing 3 PCB’s for each set of 4 buttons. I was left with the main PCB, 3 button PCB’s and the usb cable. I tested it in game, and it all worked.
The one issue that remains is the length of the connectors between the 3 button PCB’s. Its fairly tight and not very long either. I wanted to mount it on the inside facing vertical as Steve had done. However, using these buttons in this way it wouldn’t be possible. The smallest configuration I can achieve is to have 4 at the top and then two sets of 4 next to each other below. Creating a box around 12cm high and 8cm wide. Roughly.
This is going to be a bit of a bodge job, but it should work well. I cut the front of the wheel apart, so the 3 PCB’s are no longer joined by the plastic. I will however be leaving on the plastic front, as it contains the button pots/springs.
These plastic fronts will be glued onto the rear side of an aluminium plate. With the holes cut through the aluminium for the buttons. I purchased some bolts, identical in diameter to the existing buttons. I will cut these to size – Enough to stick out, go through the aluminium and press on the rubber to action the click.
I hope to punch in the button names with a punch (obviously). And then fill them with yellow.
These will be glued directly to the rubber. If all goes well it should end up looking something like the mockup I’ve attached to this post.
Fingers crossed!
Jul/090
In Cockpit Design (updated)
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- In Cockpit Design
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- In Cockpit Design
Following on from yesterday’s post, here’s my latest In Cockpit design. Now featuring button boxes, carpet texture, seat, various Logo’s, headrest pull tags and wheel functions.
Jul/090
In Cockpit Design
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- Cockpit Without Wheel
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- Cockpit With Wheel
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- Cockpit in Garage
This is what I hope the inside of my cockpit will look like. I haven’t added the button boxes on the right and left sides, I hope to have those installed later. I’ve created two images – one with the wheel attached, and the other without. The inside will be carpeted and the edges with Carbon Fibre vinyl. Also posted a cockpit-in garage scenario.
Jul/092
Pedal Design Idea
Pedal Design
Here is my proposed Pedal Design idea. I plan to remove the pedals from the current plastic housing and mount them onto sturdier aluminium. Around 300mm x 250mm x 6mm. I will attach the remaining two pedals with two bolts – one at either end of the metal pedal base. Since the current Pedal housing leaves your foot around an inch off the ground, I will build a double step of Aluminium at the front to enable me to reach the pedals in the same way as I do currently. Then I will lay a carbon fibre vinyl over the top of the foot rest. The cables will be tied around and fixed into place at the back, leave nothing untidy.
Jul/097
Ste’s Cockpit Design
Ste's Cockpit Design
Here is what I have planned. My cockpit should look like this, with this design. All inspiration has been taken from Steven Jones, who designed the original Sim Cockpit. Luckily for myself and Mike, Steven thankfully provided dimensions for everything as well. I’ve made a few changes from Steven’s design, including the headrest and a different livery. I will also try to get the wheel inside the cockpit, rather than outside of it. Click the image above to see in Full-Res.