Nov/090
More carpeting and Track Map Holder
Wow, I finally got around to doing some more work on the cockpit. I suddenly had an urge to finish the carpet, so I spent a couple of hours finishing it tonight.
Before starting this I fixed in the rear brackets on the wheel shelf, I forgot to secure this before.
I chose to do the bottom section first off, measuring the length and width needed and leaving enough for an inch of overlap on each side. I was only carpeting up to the edge of the carpet gripper, where the pedals start. Nothing else is visible, from either inside or out.
I was more accurate than when I did the back half, so cutting things too small wasn’t an issue. After fixing the bottom piece, I chose to do the large vertical face at the bottom. This would overlap the extra inch from the bottom section and be trimmed at the edge for a clean line.
Next up, I did the sides, inside. These sections would go over the brackets for holding the wheel shelf. Again, I left an inch of overlap. This would be trimmed to the edge afterwards. Next I wanted to cover the vertical face going up the sides. I used one rectangular piece for either side. This would overlap the sides inside and leave no line visible.
Next, I needed to make custom shapes to fit in the top corners (see images). I did some brief measuring and ended up with a shape that somehow looked like the cockpit itself! I got these two stuck in.
Finally I decided to cover the wheel shelf. In hope it might deaden the sound of my wheel just a bit. There were a few tiny little gaps in the material so I just used some of the offcuts and filled them. Once the glue is perfectly dry I will brush off any excess glue that has got onto the front of the carpet.
Very happy with the final result of the carpeting, like the back half, it really absorbs the corners, it’s great to sit in.
Finally, just for a little touch, I added a plastic Business Card Pocket. This would hold a track map.
Not much more left to do now. Decals, Wheel, Final touch ups and hopefully two button boxes if someone can make them for me!
I’m thinking of covering the wheel cowling in the carbon fibre I’ve got left over. It’s either that or painting it.
Sep/092
I’m Home! – Pedals/Wheel attached | Cowling Cutting & Fixing
Hey Guys! I’m back from Italy after an incredible 8 days in Milan. The Grand Prix was fantastic. Now I’m back in the real World and I want to get this cockpit finished!
I’ve lost track of whats left, but as far as I can remember this is it:
- Steering wheel cowling
- Mount Pedals
- Mount Steering Wheel
- Decals/Stickers
- Carpet Front Section
- Final Coat of Paint & Touch Up
- ARC Wheel
So, really there’s not all that much left, the decals are out of my hands. I’m waiting for a response on those. I need more carpet, which I will get ordered.
Anyway, last night I started on the Pedals, Steering Wheel and Cowling – and a quick test 
I began with the task of attaching and fixing the pedals in the cockpit. I put the pedals in the front section, rested on the back edge. They stood up quite nicely under their own weight. I got into the cockpit and found the nicest position for them. Unfortunately this was about 2 inches from the back of the cockpit – so they wouldn’t be able to rest and get fixed right there. I marked where the pedals rested, bottom, top, sides – so I could fix them in the exact same place.
I needed a solution and after some ideas of using wooden batons, I went with a carpet gripper! I cut a carpet gripper to the exact width of the front section, two pieces. One part for the bottom, this would prevent the pedals slipping down and it gave a lip for them to sit in. I hammered the sharp grippers down and it proved to give a clean look whilst doing it’s job. For holding the pedals at the correct angle, I used the second piece. This was a bit longer, 3 inches on either side. I used a vice to bend the final 3 inches on the ends around, 90 degrees to the main section. This would allow me to screw it into the side of the cockpit and use the main length to rest the pedals in! Because the carpet gripper already has holes in, I only needed to drill an additional two holes through the metal to fix it to the cockpit and prevent it twisting.
I placed the pedals in and they fitted snugly and completely secure. I put a lot of force in every direction on the pedals and they didn’t move, so just driving won’t be a problem at all.
The next job was fixing the wheel to the cockpit. I already had a section of wood about 30cm long, 0.75in deep and wide enough for an extremely tight fit within the cockpit. I found it quite difficult to find the best position for the wheel and it was very tight with my knees. The clamps on the bottom of the wheel base were about 1cm away from making contact with my legs. I decided it was ok. :-O
I marked where the board was in the same way I did with the pedals and then removed it. I decided it was far too deep, un-necessarily. The wheel base is only about 18cm, so this was sparing 12cm or so which wasn’t needed. So I sawed the unused part off in favour of a smaller support section.
I used 4, 90 degree metal brackets to attach the support to the cockpit. Attaching it to the support first and then screwing it into the cockpit. Because of the tight fit, it was supported under it’s own weight whilst I tightened the screws.
The final thing I wanted achieve last night was the wheel cowling. I had a few ideas, as I had done in my mockups. I was initially going to place a section over the wheel, flush with the top of the cockpit. However, the G25 base proved too high. There was about 4mm clearance from the top of it to the surface of the cockpit. Not enough. I decided to place the wooden cowling ontop of the cockpit surface. It was 0.5mm ply board. Easy to cut, easy to sand, easy to paint.
I firstly decided on the rough outline of it, using a pencil, marker pen and a ruler. I cut it a little too bit so I could sand it down, rather than it be too short and have to cut it all again! I used a jigsaw to cut it out. After doing so I used a fine sandpaper to smooth it all, round the corners and remove any possibility of splinters.
Now, for the fixing. I put a line of wood glue around bottom of it. This dries transparent so any excess squeezing out wasn’t a problem. I used 0.75in hardboard pins. They are just like panel pins but brass and a bit stronger. I used 8 in total, spacing them evenly. There was no possibility of the MDF or Ply board splitting with these. Finally, I used a damn cloth to remove the excess wood glue.
This will need to be primed, undercoated and painted red to match the cockpit.
Now all in place, the final thing to do was to have a quick test! My first outing with it! The perspective with the Display was different and will take a little getting used to. But the wheel felt completely solid, the pedals felt solid and everything went smoothly.
So, this leaves me with the following:
- Decals/Stickers
- Carpet Front Section
- Final Coat of Paint & Touch Up
- ARC Wheel
Enjoy the pics!
Sep/090
Carpeting the back half of the Cockpit
Yes yes, I said no more updates until the 17th, but I found a bit of time tonight and took on the carpeting.
After about 15 minutes I realised I wouldn’t have enough to do the full thing – sigh! I managed to do the back half with a few scraps left over. So I will need to order a bit more.
I started off by measuring the base, adding an extra inch or two at both ends and top and bottom. This would be so it would rise up the sides a little and also hang over the edge, so I could ensure a better line down the front of the cockpit.
I cut this out, sprayed the back with adhesive – which incidentally ran out after covering this piece. Luckily I had a second can, well, my Dad did. I pushed the bottom piece into place, squeezed it into the corners and made sure it was completely stuck on. I had to cut the corners off at the back, so the carpet didn’t scrunch up. For now, I left the overhang in place.
I chose to do the back next, this would overlap the bottom piece and run along the sides of the cockpit by an inch or so. I trimmed the edges slightly to fit in with the two pieces of wood. I didn’t want any scrunching or folds, so this made it need. I used a combination of scissors and a knife.
Next, I chose to do the two small uprights, but only up to the top of the first piece of wood – not the whole side. I used the same process as the bottom. This side bit overlapped the bottom piece than ran an inch up the side. Once this was stuck down, I used a knife to cut at 45 degrees into the edge (corner) to take the excess off this section. I repeated this for the other side.
Following this, the only remaining pieces were the two main sides. Again, I used exactly the same process as before. overlapping each end and then cutting it at 45 degrees in the join to keep it neat.
The final thing to do was to cut the front overlapping sections off. I used scissors for this. There were still a few bits to touch up, mainly at the back with the angled wood. I just cut off small pieces of carpet and stuck them in. Because the carpet is black it totally absorbs any lines.
I don’t think it’s perfect and I will never be a carpeter, but it does the job and it looks the business. All I need now is more carpet for the front!
Sep/090
Seat Covering
Firstly, sorry for the lack of updates recently, I’ve been stupidly busy with other stuff and only got around to doing the seat covering tonight. Unfortunately, from this blog post, there won’t be another until the 17th September. I’m busy until Monday and I go on holiday on Tuesday for 8 days so there will be no progress.
Anyway, down to the seat covering details.
I used black faux suede to cover the seat and a heavy duty spray adhesive to stick it on. I would warn you, this spray is like nothing I’ve ever seen or used, it is incredibly sticky. Get it on your clothes, you will not get it off. Don’t breathe it in – it literally takes your breath away. It’s difficult to direct so make sure everything around is covered with a sheet. After finishing I think I probably had about 10% of the can left, so go easy when applying it.
The first thing I did was to put the whole piece of suede over the seat and figure out the best way to cover it. I had two options:
- Put it on in one piece, leaving no join lines but having a large number of creases – some possibly on the bottom also.
- Put it on in sections, making cuts/slits through the fabric, overlaying it. This would leave a few lines where it overlaps, but there would be no creases and no air pockets in the fabric.
I chose option two.
I decided to cover the sides first, one at a time. So I cut a section from the fabric. Enough to cover the length with a 2 inch overlap at either end and an inch or so at the bottom, with 3 inches at the top. Initially I sprayed the adhesive onto the seat itself and pushed the fabric on. But before long I realised it was better to spray the fabric. This adhesive is so strong that it melts the seat, if you spray it too closely to the seat, it will be very concentrated, you can push your finger right into the seat, it’s like marshmallow. I found it better to spray it from about 12 inches away. This gave a better covering as well. I also found it better to push the Suede on with the palm of my hand to prevent indenting the seat. I made sure there were no creases and bubbles.
Down the inside edge of the seat I cut the fabric where the creases would lie. I sprayed the edge first and stuck it down and then sprayed each individual cut and stuck them down. Each overlapping the next.
I completed the other side. This takes longer than you would expect and I would suggest using two people. I got my dad to help with mine. One person to stretch the material and the other to press it on. Be careful as the adhesive also melts the fabric if you apply too much!
I decided to stick the middle section on in one piece. I cut this roughly to size with enough material to overlap the edges by about 4 inches.
I stuck the back down first, and then the bottom. After that, I stuck either leg section down. The sides of the middle section were still completely unstuck and full of creases. I used exactly the same process as I did for the sides. Cut along the creases and stuck each cut piece down, followed by the next which would overlap it.
The seat is now covered. It looks fantastic, pictures don’t do it justice. They show up the smallest of floors. Remember that space inhibitors are used down the side, inside the cockpit, so the sides, front and back of the seat will not be seen – only the main area. Which is near perfect.
Now the seat is finished, I can say this is definitely the way to go. It’s super comfortable, looks fantastic and wasn’t much more expensive than buying a bucket seat – which isn’t moulded!
Aug/090
Carbon Fibre Fitting & Seat Filling
Today I got underway with the carbon fibre vinyl. I wanted it around the bottom of the rear side of the cockpit. After unrolling it, I cut a piece wide enough for the section. Making sure there was enough to overlap the edges by about 1-1.5cm. I began by peeling off 2 or 3 inches of the vinyl and pressing it onto the surface. I used a smooth cloth to press over the vinyl, taking out any air and possible bubbles. I continued to remove the plastic backing until the whole sheet was pressed tightly to the surface.
I cut a 45 degree angle in the corners, so the edges could fold underneath the cockpit, this would mean no join line at all. The corners also folded nearly together because of the angled cut. At the front edge, I cut just before the start of the rounded edge. I just used a ruler for a straight edge.
I did the same for the opposite side, and then started on the back. The back would only overlap on the bottom, not the sides. It would site over the top of the two side pieces, keeping them in place tightly.
I decided to Duck Tape underneath. This will keep the vinyl firmly in place and provide a small amount of grip on the floor also. Duck tape just doesn’t move so theres 0% chance of the vinyl peeling off now the tape is covering the edges.
Then I moved onto the seat once again. I had previously cut it down, gotten rid of the excess, but now I wanted to fill any cracks and gaps. I used expanding foam for this. I squirted this into all the major cracks and also used it to build up the sides a bit – I wanted the seat to look more even than it did. This foam will expand massively, and I will need to cut and/or sand it off once its dried – usually takes about 45 minutes.
I’ve put everything away now as it was too dark to work, but tomorrow I will set about cutting the excess foam off and leaving myself with a more solid, rigid and symmetrical seat.
Aug/090
Seat Moulded, Dried, Bag removed, Cut to size.
I got up nice and early this morning to get to work on the seat. It had been curing for about 13 hours overnight. More than enough time.
I pulled the seat out of the car, noticing a few obvious cracks – off the main structure, creases were minimal. It looked good!
I pulled at the bag near the back edge of the seat and it peeled off nicely, I made a cut with a knife and began pulling the bag off the main seat. The bag removed quickly and easily, apart from those few obvious areas where cracks had appeared.
Cracks appear because the bag is folded inside itself, basically bag to bag, there are removable before finally moulding, however its difficult to remove all of them and also in this case it wouldn’t matter – the support for me is nowhere near the cracks.
The main area of the seat was pretty much crease free, a nice smooth flowing surface moulded to my shape. And no cracks in sight. The bottom front edge of the seat had a fairly big chunk that was removed, but the rest of the bottom is completely flat and support/rocking/movement is absolutely not an issue. The seat fits completely snug and firm in place.
I cut away the excess on the sides and top, in stages. The foam was too thick to go through in one cut, so I removed it in small squares and then took the top off the remaining parts.
For those cracks at the bottom, I’m going to fill those with some sort of filler, which I have yet to decide on. The cracks don’t really matter, but its just for my own piece of mind and to make the seat covering easier. Once I receive the suede, and the seat is covered, there will be no problems and the seat will look great.
Check out the pictures, there’s a massive difference between the removal of bag stage to the final seat shape. The seat feels comfy, and I could sit there for hours without a problem, this is definitely the way to go, for anyone. Let’s just hope I don’t put on any weight!
All I can say to anyone moulding their own seat is to:
- Take your time
- Be careful
- Test beforehand
- Follow the instructions as best as you can.
If you rush into it all, it will go wrong, I almost guarantee it. You will end up mixing the resin wrong, or not kneading the beads for long enough, or not staying in the seat for long enough, cutting it to shape too soon, and worst of all you will end up with major cracks, separations and creases over the main area of the seat. If this happens, its not worth using. So, as I say – take your time.
Aug/090
Seat Moulding Process
Well, that didn’t take quite as long as I expected it to! After doing a couple of further test runs with the seat mould/vacuum, the actual final mould only took about 45 minutes.
I decided to add some space inhibitors to the bottom of the cockpit. I got them from a Supermarket (they use them at the back of the fridges occasionally). I used it for the same thing here, basically to take up space inside the cockpit, so the seat’s beads could be used for moulding and not wasted filling right to the edges of the cockpit.
I did a test run with these installed and it worked far better than it had done previously. Then I decided to go for the final run.
Firstly, I let all the air out of the bag using the valve, which let the beads completely loose. I then proceeded to mix the resin. The kit provides the exact amounts of hardener and resin – 400ml and 600ml respectively. Pour the hardener in first, followed by the resin. This is thicker and will sink to the bottom. Then I mixed it all for 5 minutes. From the point of mixing, you have approximately 1 hour before the seat is too hard to work with.
Next, I removed the valve from the bag by a simple twist and pull. I lifted the hole over the centre of the bag/beads and began pouring in the liquid using the jug and funnel, making sure not to get the resin on the bag itself. This doesn’t matter, but its best to hit the beads directly rather than pouring it down the sides of the bag.
Next, I spent 15 minutes kneading the bag, mixing up the mix right into the beads. I pushed the corners into the middle of the bag to be sure they were all coated. There is a slight colour to the mix – a light grey, so you can clearly see which beads have been coated and which haven’t. The feeling of the beads was now totally different. They felt far more dense.
I placed more beads on the bottom of the bag, and fewer for the back. Then I placed it into the cockpit. I got in, and got comfy. Then, for the final vacuum. It really tightened up this time. I sat in the cockpit for 1 hour and 25 minutes total. After about 25 minutes or so the seat started to get really hot. And after about 45 minutes it was pretty darn hot. Not burning hot, just hot hot.
I got out of the cockpit and the seat looked great. I will now leave it overnight to properly harden and cure. Tomorrow, I will begin sanding, cutting and removing the excess that isn’t needed.
On Monday, I will receive the suede I have ordered to cover it. Black Faux Suede from Ebay, it cost me £9 plus shipping – £13 total. Very reasonable. This will be stuck on with the adhesive spray I have.
I have also ordered some suitcase catches, which will keep the two halves of the cockpit together, and will look really good.
Anyway, enough rambling, check out the pics!
Aug/090
Before & After Sanding
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- Before and After – Front
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- Before and After – 3/4
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- Before And After – 3/4 rear
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- Before And After – Rear
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- Front Corner
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- 2nd 3/4 View
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- Inside the footwell
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- 3/4
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- Front Shot
Just finished off the sanding. It’s really made a massive difference to the look. I’m extremely happy with it. I’ve uploaded a load of pictures for you. Some before and after shots too.
Enjoy.
Jul/090
Sanding the Cockpit
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- Back end of the cockpit
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- Me sanding
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- Closeup
I’ve spent a couple of hours today sanding down the cockpit. It was fairly smooth anyway, but I’ve rounded all of the edges and corners. I can’t believe what a massive difference it makes. It seems to have turned from a shaped box into what it is supposed to be, and there’s so much more to do.
I was going to use a Router, for ease and accuracy, but it turned out that the screws were too close to the edge and routing would have meant countersinking the screws further and causing problems.
I ended up using a plane firstly. Taking a strip off at 45 degrees, roughly. After doing this I used course sandpaper to get the edge and then a finer sandpaper to get the nice finish.
I used an electric sander to do the flat surfaces, followed by the finer sandpaper to make it even smoother.
There are a few more edges to do on the front section but the rear is complete. 15 minutes work tomorrow and it will be done.
I also received the aluminium plate today, it’s perfect.
Don’t ask about the hat in the pic! My hair was a nightmare. I also used a mask, MDF is full or formaldehyde. And gloves, although I’ve still come out with a blister on my thumb!
Check out the pics.
Jul/090
Cockpit Constructed
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- From the Back
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- With me inside
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- Me inside
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- From above
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- In the footwell
Hey guys! Sorry for the lack of updates over the past week. We’ve not had much news and we’ve also been very busy. But today I have good news!
I went to collect the wood for my cockpit today, expecting it to be flatpacked, ready for me to assemble. But the carpenter had constructed it for me! Wow! Couldn’t believe it. He had definitely put it together better than I would have been able to, neater, tidier and cleaner. Plus, he saved me a LOT of time.
It cost a little more than I was expecting, I was thinking around £80, and it turned out to be £120 for materials, labour and vat. But as I say, he saved me god knows how many hours so it’s definitely worth it!
After this, I’ve got to get the resin seat, Momo wheel, aluminium plate for the pedals, router, paint, carpet/cf vinyl and decals. So, a fair bit to do, but it shouldn’t take that long!
Check out the pics anyhow!